A Failproof Guide To Concealer Application
6 minutes read
It’s a product that many of us rely upon to cover up the effects of a late night or disguise a breakout – but learning how to apply concealer like a pro is another matter.
Before learning how to apply concealer, you need to understand the different types that are out there and their specific purposes.
The level of coverage a concealer offers depends on the type you choose – and there are so many to choose from. Creamy, light-reflective concealers are great to brighten up the under-eye area; denser, thicker textures are useful when you’re trying to cover up a spot; runny liquids are great to get a thin coat of coverage over a larger area.
Once you’ve picked the concealer you need, it’s time to wield it with finesse…
How to apply concealer
How you apply it depends on what you’re trying to conceal. But it’s important to remember that concealer can only cover up various forms of discolouration, but not textural concerns. For example, it can hide under eye shadows, redness around the nose, acne scars or even the redness on a blemish. But it cannot hide bumpy skin, dry patches or the inflammation around a spot.
“Concealing a spot is not an easy job,” says Charlotte McHale, Clarins Training Manager. “With the rise of HD television, you may have noticed that even celebrities have spots that are visible on TV. They may be covered but they’re still raised.”
She adds: “You can do a lot to make the spot less obvious, but there’s nothing you can do to alter the texture of it. So, the first thing I would say is: give yourself a break.”
Once you’ve accepted that the spot will heal in its own time, you can use some concealer to minimise the redness around it.
(To avoid the spread of bacteria, never dab a concealer stick or applicator directly onto a spot – deposit some of the pigment onto a brush or clean hands and wash immediately afterwards.)
If your blemish is a bright red shade, use a green-toned colour corrector on it first to cancel out the redness. Next, reach for concealer.
“Use a concealer that’s the same colour as the rest of your face,” says McHale. “It needs to be a close match to the rest of your skin. Apply it to the centre of the spot and blend outwards.”
She adds: “You want to restrict the concealer as close to the spot as possible. So, if you’ve got a pinprick spot, don’t try to draw a ring of Saturn around it – there’s no need. Just get right on it with a small brush and very gently pat it in.”
For any other scars or pigmentation, use a small brush to lightly dab concealer on the skin. You can use your finger to press the colour in and wipe away brush strokes.
How to apply concealer under eyes
We all need a little help after we’ve been burning the midnight oil, to cover those dark circles that are tell-tale signs of fatigue. First, you need to ensure that the under-eye area is well hydrated. Use a lightweight eye cream for this. We like the Total Eye Hydrate, £30 which has organic leaf of life to boost skin’s ability to hold moisture.
If you have particularly dark under-eyes, prepping with a colour corrector can help balance out the discolouration. You only need the tiniest bit. Choose a yellow and orange tone to help counterbalance purple and blue tones under the eyes. Go for a pink or peach one if you have fair skin.
Next, reach for concealer. Remember to only use a minimal amount of product, applying it only on the areas that need it. “Don’t over-conceal,” warns McHale. “Only cover the dark areas which are usually the very inner corners of the eyes, and the first third or first half of the under-eye area. The outer half typically never needs concealing, unless you’ve got some redness or pigmentation in the outer corners of the eyes. If you’ve got any discolouration on the eyelids, you can apply some concealer across the lids as well.”
To apply it, you could use your fingers or a small brush.
In terms of shade selection, choose one that matches the skin perfectly. “Don’t go too light and never darker,” McHale advises.
Do you apply concealer before or after foundation?
The short answer: apply concealer after foundation.
“It’s kind of like skincare – you always apply the thickest consistency last,” says McHale. “You wouldn’t put cream on before serum, right? And concealer tends to be denser than foundation. Also, it’s got more coverage.”
The idea is to put a thin layer of foundation all over the face and then use concealer only in areas that require more coverage. “You can’t make that assessment the other way around. Because if you’re looking at your bare face, with no foundation on, you’re going to want to apply concealer everywhere,” McHale explains. Which will only look cakey and unnatural. “When you put your foundation first, you will notice that most of your face looks even, and you will have a better idea as to where concealer needs to go.”
To ensure you don’t forget, McHale has a simple phrase: “Primer, foundation, concealer, powder – that’s the order to remember. There’s no other way. I always say there’s no rules in make-up, but this is a rule!”
How to stop concealer from creasing
Usually, concealer creases if you use too much. It’s a highly pigmented product so you usually need less than you think you would. Also, it’s always a good idea to build coverage in thin layers rather than applying loads from the start.
You also must be especially careful if you’re applying concealer on a part of your face that naturally creases – this could be your forehead, under eyes, the corners of your eyes and the mouth. “In those areas, keep make-up as minimal as possible. Because that kind of creasing can’t be helped,” says McHale.
Making sure your skin is well-hydrated will also help. If the skin is dry, it will take the moisture from the make-up and leave the dry product on the surface which is more likely to crease.
Lastly, be careful not to over-powder. Powder lightly all over for a long-lasting effect. And if you’ve got dry skin, you may only need to powder very specific areas like the eyelids or the centre of the face.
Can you use concealer as foundation?
Using a high-coverage concealer all over your face is bound to look unnatural. If you’re in a pinch and have run out of foundation, you can mix a drop of concealer with your moisturiser to use all over the face.
Also, if you have relatively even-toned skin, you may not need to always wear foundation. Just use concealer on the small areas that need a bit of coverage (make sure the shade perfectly matches your skin).
In all other cases, a thin layer of foundation pre-concealer will always create the most even, natural-looking effect.
Next read: How To Apply Foundation Like A Pro
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