Thin Or Sparse Eyebrows? Here’s How To Draw Them On Perfectly

6 minutes read

There are so many reasons you could have sparse brows or no eyebrows at all – anything from medical procedures and hair loss to years of over-plucking could be the cause. And if you want to create the look of full defined eyebrows again, we know how tricky it can be.

Of course, you can consider long-term solutions (like microblading); however, as with any of these longer-term semi-permanent beauty treatments, they will require upkeep for years to come.

However, if you prefer to take matters into your own hands, we have all the guidance you need. We asked celebrity make-up artist Lan Nguyen-Grealis what the secret to creating realistic eyebrows with make-up and the best make-up brushes to use.

Woman brushing her brows

Brow mapping 101

Brow mapping is a great solution to achieving your best brows yet. Mapping should work for everyone, as it ensures that the brows that you create are right for your face, as you’re using your features to determine its shape and size.

Find the correct placement for your brows

“Brow mapping shouldn’t be difficult if you know how to do it properly,” says Nguyen-Grealis. “I find it easiest to search for the inner corner of the brow first. I use a pencil or make-up brush to help me do this – by lining it up with the edge of the nose and lightly marking the skin where the tool touches along the brow bone.”

“Then, I find where the natural tail of the brow should be placed by holding the tool diagonally across the face, with the lower end touching the edge of the nostril and the end touching where the tail of the brow should sit. Mark the skin again lightly on this point.

“To find where the brow’s arch should be, line up the tool diagonally, again going from the edge of the nose, and up through the centre of the eye and mark the skin as the pencil touches the orbital bone. This is where the highest point of the brow should be.

Connect the dots and draw the shape

“Draw lightly along the eyebrows to join up the three marked points, before creating natural, hair-like strokes gently onto the skin on top of the natural hairs with a fine-tip eyebrow pencil or product. Be sure to set it with an eyebrow fixing product for all-day wear,” Nguyen-Grealis explains.

woman-plucking-eyebrows

Choosing the right eyebrow products

Eyebrow pencils

Eyebrow pencils are designed to enhance or re-shape the eyebrows. They have a pointed tip which allows for precision application and are usually well pigmented to fill in any sparse areas. Eyebrow pencils are also ideal for anyone that has gaps in their eyebrows, asymmetry and sparse ends.

If you’ve got no brow hairs to start with or very spare or thin eyebrows, pencils will look the most natural, compared to powders.

You need a brow pencil with a soft, slightly waxy texture that can be sharpened to a point. This will help you draw on natural-looking hairs.

Try: The classic Clarins Eyebrow Pencils, £21, have a vast shade range and a creamy, long wearing formula. They also come with a brow brush on the other end of the pencil – so you don’t need any extra tools.

Eyebrow Powders

If you want to achieve a softer look when it comes to your natural brow, opt for an eyebrow powder. Powders are designed to fill in sparse areas and add more definition to the brow shape, and if used sparingly, generally give a much subtler finish than pencils or other eyebrow products. The best brushes double-ended – so you get a tapered pointy version on one end and the brush or comb on the other.

Try: Anastasia Beverly Hills Brow Brush, £18

Eyebrow Pomades

Pomades are wax-based formulas that are used to fill in, define and shape the eyebrows. They are perfect for anyone that wants a bolder, more dramatic look.

Eyebrow Markers

If you live in humid conditions or have a tendency to sweat or come into close contact with water regularly, a brow marker may be the way to go. Markers are generally highly pigmented, waterproof, long-lasting and easy to use, and also have the ability to create definition with just a few strokes. There are even some semi-permanent eyebrow markers available if you prefer a longer-lasting look.

Eyebrow Gels

Eyebrow gels help to shape, define and fix eyebrows in place all day. They usually look like mascaras – they come with a spoolie applicator and can be brushed through the brows until the desired look and shape is reached. Gels can be used on their own, or on top of other brow products to properly fix them in place.

Try: Lash & Brow Double Fix Mascara, £25

Eyebrow Wax

If you’ve got unruly brows, an eyebrow wax might be your best bet. Eyebrow wax can be clear or tinted, and is more of a solid consistency – making it better for taming brows that easily lose their shape.

Want to make more of an impact? Test the Clarins Lash & Brow Double Fix Mascara, £25 for added longevity.

Choosing the right colour

When choosing a brow product, it’s mega important to choose the right shade for you.

No matter what colour your hair is, your brows are nearly always a cooler tone. If you have very dark hair, you can choose a shade that’s slightly ashier (and maybe even a tad lighter) than your natural hair colour. On the other hand, if you have light hair, consider going for a shade darker for more definition. But always ensure the brow product has a cool undertone.

If you’ve got red hair, you don’t need red eyebrows. Instead, choose a cool-toned auburn.

How to fill sparse or missing eyebrows to make them look thicker

So now you’re armed with the right brow product and have your shape ready; it’s time to fill the brow in. Sharpen your pencil, so it has a precise tip.

Begin by drawing tiny little hairs in the front of the brow. Brows in the front tend to grow straight up. Mimic this when you’re drawing them.

Use short, light strokes to draw these vertical lines. Keep drawing them in an upward direction until you reach the arch. This is where brow growth tends to change direction and go sideways.

Once you’ve finished, take a cotton bud and wipe off the dots. You can then give the hairs another brush or set them with a gel.

If you really want to invest in your brows, invest in a growth serum, which can be applied twice per day to encourage new growth.

Clarins Eyebrow Pencils, £21

Clarins eyebrow pencil